Thomas Irvin.com | Gentlemen's Apparel

It’s very hard to find good clothes unless you (a) know what to look for or (b) know where to look. The former takes time, research, and patience, so here’s a shortcut to the latter––a clearing house, if you will, of clothes that don’t suck.

Outfitters to Gentlemen These fine establishments can sell you just about anything you need to look like a gentleman, and they’ll steer you clear of looking like Arsenio Hall or a member of the mob. They receive my endorsement.

Brooks Brothers The originator of the "Ivy League" style. For a time near the end of the century, things were getting a little too Banana Republic-y for my tastes, but under Claudio Del Vecchio's leadership, they've made a fine return to form. Listed here first because it was founded in 1818, which I find very appealing. Because they have so many locations, however, some of the clerks don’t know a half-Windsor from a four-in-hand. Find a good clerk and email me and I’ll compile a list. I like Bob Urgo at the Downtown Chicago store, Chuck Sacasa at the Michigan Avenue Chicago store, Jonathan Sternberg at the Kansas City store, and James Harper at the downtown Cleveland location. J.D. Snider at downtown Cleveland is also good. I have it on good authority that the best people in St. Louis are Michael Klug and Pat Zach (two different sources recommend Pat), and Suleiman (last name unknown by my source) is your best bet in Washington, D.C. When visiting the Lenox Square store in Atlanta, see Mr. Arroll. Another reader writes, "There is no better clothes salesman in the world than Tom Davis at Brooks Brothers on Madison Avenue in New York." (For that matter there's no better Brooks Brothers than the flagship store on Madison Avenue.)

Ben Silver Fine neckties and other gentlemanly accessories. They come right out and say that they’re inspired by Fred Astaire and Cary Grant. You could do worse than those two as your role models. A lot worse. Besides their excellent catalog, they also have a regimental tie catalog and an eyewear catalog. Their eyewear collection includes those round english glasses that no one else in the US seems to carry.

J.Press, for those who think Brooks Brothers has gone entirely too modern. Founded a little over a century ago, they were "J" long before J. Crew, J. Jill, J. Peterman, or for that matter, J. Mascis came along. They have four stores on the East Coast (New Haven, New York, Cambridge, and Washington D.C.) and seem to have no intention of opening any more. Their distinguishing characteristic is that they haven't abandoned the "sack" suit, which is the undarted three-button style (top button rolled into the lapel so it is never buttoned) that Brooks Brothers originated mid-century. Summer 2003 saw a great selection of madras neckties. In 2007, they moved their New York City store from around-the-corner-to-Brooks up a couple of blocks to 47th & Madison.

Paul Stuart Sort of the modern version of the old-fashioned men's haberdasher, Paul Stuart has a particularly nice selection of socks. The staff people can be rather snooty, and the neck measurements of their bow ties are sized about two inches too large. Still, their selection is amazing and the style combines the traditional with great splashes of psychedelic colour. The icing on the cake is their retail environment, which captures that certain '60s architectural modernism often seen in Bond films.

Polo Ralph Lauren Despite what Ralph may tell you, wearing animal prints or images of Old Glory is highly suspect. However, Ralph Lauren’s dedication to natural fibers and the classic look earn him a place here. Ralph gets extra points for having plenty to read on his site. You would do well to steer clear of anything labeled Polo Sport, however.

Burberry The company founded by Thomas Burberry used to be known for developing trench coats and gabardine. Today they're better known for the distinctive plaid pattern that for years was relegated to the inner lining of those trench coats. The Burberry plaid is now found on everything from cashmere scarves (wonderful) to key fobs (ehh) to rap musicians (um, let's just say it's come a long way). Check out the made-to-measure department in your nearest store for some gorgeous wools exclusive to Burberry.

Robert Talbott Makers of some of the finest neckties in the world. A Talbott will produce an excellent knot, time after time. Available at fine menswear shops nationwide, as well.

The Andover Shop Much like J. Press, the Andover Shop is another holdout against the tides of change, offering "Traditional and Conservative Woolens" (a subtle distinction, I grant you). This is the real deal, a great bastion of old-school (literally) preppy style. For those of you who know my sportscaster friend John Baylor, the plaid jacket that he wears on his famous Boxing Day parties comes from the Andover Shop. (Like all traditional clothes, it never goes out of style, because it transcends the vagaries of fashion.) Legendary tennis journalist Bud Collins also gets his colourful pants made there.

A footnote: Here's a good way to gauge the quality of a store: if they refer to nice pants as "trousers," have a look at their merchandise; if they refer to nice pants as "slacks," have a look for the nearest exit. "Slacks" are worn by people who don't understand the inherent contradiction of the phrase "short-sleeved dress shirt."

Bespoke Tailors These fine shops on Savile Row in London are home to the finest suitmakers in the world. Certainly worth a visit when you’re in London. And here's a little-known secret––while the suits are rather expensive (but no more expensive than a designer suit that doesn't fit properly), the neckties are quite affordable, and just as well-made as the suits.

Henry Poole & Co. Founded in 1806, twelve years before Brooks Brothers. That says a lot.

Dege & Skinner I bought my father a necktie here. That also says a lot. I recall the clerk had a terrific red vest; he looked like he was about to go foxhunting.

Kilgour French Stanbury A bit more modern in their look, but still a venerable Savile Row shop. Can claim the rare distinction of having made suits for Cary Grant, which is rather like saying you made pianos for Mozart.

Gieves and Hawkes A very venerable shop, also going for a more modern look and now offering a good deal of Ready to Wear.

Anderson & Sheppard So traditional that they don’t even have a web site, my favorite shop on Savile Row. This is the look Ralph Lauren tries to copy for his suits. Visit them in person and you’ll understand. I took the picture at left when visiting them on Savile Row; click on it for a larger image.

Update: After years of being so old-school that they didn't have a web site, Anderson & Sheppard has now created one of the most stunningly beautiful web sites I've seen––with photography that can only be described as sartorial porn. Click and swoon: www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk. They also have moved, to 32 Old Burlington Street (just parallel to Savile Row).

English Cut One of the best sources of information about Bespoke Clothing is the blog of former Anderson & Sheppard tailor Thomas Mahon. Yes, that's right––a tailor who worked at Anderson & Sheppard has a blog.

Souster and Hicks I haven't visited this shop, but they were kind enough to link to my site, so I'm happy to return the favor. From their office on Savile Row they take measurements; your suit is then "computer cut and factory sewn," producing a suit that is substantially less expensive than other Savile Row tailors. I'll leave it up to you to determine from your visits to various shops whether this produces the right suit for you.

Shoes I don’t care how famous your shoes are, if you only make them in one width then your shoes aren’t worth fifty cents. That means you, Doc Marten. Here are three manufacturers that haven’t forgotten the gentleman with the narrow foot.

Allen-Edmonds One of four companies in North America that offer my shoe size (11 1/2 AA) and the most well-known. I own seven pairs. Try the Park Avenue, my favorite. Also look for their outlet stores, which sell factory seconds at 40% off. The factory second models are virtually indistinguishable from what I assume they must call factory firsts. They also have the best shoe polish in the world; it comes in a tube with its own built-in applicator brush at the head of the tube. You'll never go back to canned shoe polish.

Alden Shoes of New England The last shoemaking company in New England, they carry a wide range of narrows, and will also do custom orders to accommodate the unusual foot. My uncle Chuck had a pair that he liked very much, even when he had to have them fitted with leg braces in his old age.

E.T. Wright Once known for their famous Arch Preservers line of shoes found in fine stores nationwide, Wright switched to more of a catalog operation over a decade ago, and in the past couple of years they seem to have ceased manufacturing in their home of Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin, because their current catalog shows all their shoes coming from overseas. That doesn't always mean quality has dropped, but having recently ordered a pair of demi-boots to replace my much-loved pair from some eight years ago, I can attest that the quality has dropped, particularly the quality of the leather. Still, they're one of the few companies that still makes a wide range of widths.

A footnote: For many men, the only person they've ever heard talk about the importance of shoe trees is a shoe store clerk trying to sell them shoe trees. Because of this, it would be easy to think that it's just another case of a salesman being pushy. On the contrary, shoe trees are one of the best investments you can make. If you don't believe me, consider no less an authority than the 1946 edition of Emily Post's Etiquette says, "Putting trees into (your shoes) the minute they are taken off is more important than polishing. Polishing can be done at any time, but trees should restore shape while the leather is still warm from the foot." I doubt Mrs. Post was receiving a kickback from any shoe tree manufacturers for that endorsement. Personally, I like Allen Edmonds' cedar shoe trees ($21.00)––cedar is better at absorbing moisture and keeping your shoes smelling fresh than other woods.

Bow Ties The world is always happy to see a man in a bow tie. Here are a few places that sell nothing but. (Also check out Ben Silver above, who have a huge selection of Bow Ties.)

Carrot & Gibbs Would you believe one of the finest bow tie makers is located in that bastion of hippy culture Boulder, Colorado? Believe it. Carrot & Gibbs makes bow ties that are adjustable not through the garden-variety movable hook apparatus, but with mother-of-pearl buttons.

Beau Ties, LTD These folks also send a nice catalog by mail.

R.Hanauer These folks got their start in the pocket square business. Now I’m all for pocket squares, but they’re not as effective as a nice linen handkerchief if you come across a lady in a Moment of Distress. At any rate, R. Hanauer also makes ascots (!) and has plenty to read on their site.

Kilts No gentleman wants to be without a kilt, however some haven’t yet purchased theirs. Here are a few good places to start building your traditional Scottish wardrobe.

Hector Russell Kiltmakers My kilt came from Hector Russell. Like Geoffrey (Tailor) Kiltmakers below, these folks are experimenting with new looks, but they also present some rather silly-looking shirts that look like they were stolen from the wardrobe of Errol Flynn's 1935 movie "Captain Blood."

The Scottish Lion Located in Conway, NH; they also produce a fine mail-order catalog. While they do offer kilt rentals, one should be very careful about renting a kilt; it’s much more of a fitted garment than you might think. The principal problem with renting a kilt from a company like the Scottish Lion is getting one that is too long––kilts look like skirts if they go much past mid-knee. However, renting from the Scottish Lion would be preferable to renting from a costume company; I’ve seen what costume companies call a kilt; it’s usually nothing more than a tartan bedsheet with some sort of belting mechanism. As Herman’s Hermits sang, "A Must To Avoid."

Burnett's & Struth Kilt Shoes, Hose Flashes and Sgian Dubhs.

Geoffrey (Tailor) Kiltmakers These kiltmakers, while maintaining traditional styles, also are attempting to bring a modern look to the kilt with their 21st Century Kilts in non-tartan colors.

Other Anything else that doesn't belong in one of the main categories above goes here.

The Sartorialist This has quickly become one of my favorite sites to check daily. A blog (in form) that is really an ongoing photo essay slash loveletter to New York City. The blogger himself is a photographer by trade, and as you'll see from the photos, a damn good one. He captures New Yorkers in the act of being stylish, and it frequently has nothing to do with how much they spent on their wardrobes. An absolute must-visit.

Tie Crafters Custom-made ties, tie alterations and cleaning. I haven’t dealt with these folks, but they seem to love neckties as much as I do. Poor site design, though.

Golf Knickers I don’t golf, but if I did, I’d buy my clothes from these folks. What's the point of golfing if you're going to look like a middle-aged middle-manager on casual Friday? These folks understand. Check out their sixty varieties of argyle socks!

DNR DNR (which used to stand for "Daily News Record" but now effectively stands for "Three Letters Which Weren't Taken By Somebody Else") is the weekly trade pub of the menswear industry. As such it covers both the good and the bad––you might get quarterly results from Ralph Lauren or Wal-Mart. Published by Fairchild Publications, the same people who publish Women's Wear Daily (which is actually a daily), Jane, W, Details, and some other trade mags. The messageboards and classifieds are as moribund as the menswear industry in general, but may be entertaining to those that enjoy that sort of thing.